Rest Easy Sleep Well My Brothers Arlington

About a year ago (maybe, closer to 2) we got a new website; with the new site my blog got lost in the shuffle for a while. Well it's back and I'm going to start with a post that Steve Kurland our business partner and the general manager in Kendall Square produced for EVOO's 20th anniversary. At the time we had been periodically writing a spotlight about different employees. Steve would ask them a bunch of questions and I would write an intro with a few anecdotes about the employee and through in a few photos. For EVOO's anniversary post Steve wanted to Spotlight Colleen and I.

I'm pretty sure that this post did go out on social media, so it may be old news to some of you. But I do think it should be in a blog since there is so much of our and EVOO's history in it.

Me and Colleen in Spain.

Spotlight on Colleen and Peter McCarthy, by Steve Kurland

I first met Colleen and Peter when I lived in Union Square. EVOO was just opening in its original location on Beacon Street in Somerville and I loved the place. The food was locally-sourced, unique, and of course delicious. It was the atmosphere though, that first attracted me. I could feel the love and care in EVOO. The staff truly cared, and everyone did their best to make EVOO successful. As a guest, EVOO was warm,welcoming, and customers quickly became regulars.

EVOO's original sign from Beacon Street in Somerville

I soon became friendly with Peter and Colleen, so when I looked to get out of the corporate restaurant world, I asked if they knew of any opportunities at independent restaurants. Luckily, this was just as Za, in Arlington, was getting ready to open. so timing was perfect. It has been 14 years. and I am genuinely happy I found such great partners.

Za, 138 Massachusetts Ave. Arlington

Colleen is one of the kindest people I know. She truly cares about all the people she comes in touch with at the restaurants. Long-time guests are friends, and Colleen goes to great lengths to take care of employees who need her help.

I admire Peter's high standards and drive, but mostly appreciate his passion. He puts his imprint on the restaurant every day–through his concern for people, and for our environment. He has taught so much to so many, and has worked on sustainability long before it became the popular thing to do.

Colleen

You are a proud and capable CPA. How were you drawn into the restaurant business?

Pete dragged me in… For years, Pete aspired to open his own restaurant. I knew he would someday open a restaurant but honestly didn't think about how it would impact my career. At the time I was working for Parent, McLaughlin & Nangle, CPAs, and really enjoyed my job.

We opened EVOO in June 1998, and for the first two years I worked both jobs. I would work at PM&N during the day, and then head to the restaurant most nights. It was pretty exhausting (especially during tax season), but hey, I was only 29 and we didn't have kids yet, so it's what I did.

A few years in, the front of the house manager told us that she was moving on, so Pete and I talked it over, and I made the decision to leave public accounting and work at EVOO full-time. It wasn't an easy decision, but a decision I'm glad I made. Of course, we weren't sure about how we would be working together, but figured we'd give it a shot. It's been great. As long he understands that I'm always right things will go smoothly!

As EVOO comes up to its 20 th Anniversary, how is it different than you thought it would be in 1998?

I never thought we'd be operating in a larger space in Kendall Square, that's for sure.

We opened 'old' EVOO on Beacon Street in Somerville. It was a 70 seat restaurant with a small bar and open cooking line. We had an amazing core staff and a lot of long-term regular guests. One of our regulars was developing the Watermark Building, and invited us to take a look at the space. At the time, our son Shane had just been born, and we had recently opened the first Za in Arlington, so I was in no position to take on that move.

A few years later, when the residential piece was complete, we were approached by yet another regular who was in charge of leasing the space at the time. This time around, the move made sense… so after twelve years, we moved EVOO to Kendall Square. The 'new' EVOO has 120 seats, including three rooms that can be private rooms. We also opened a second Za location in an adjacent space, with a shared bar. I'm not sure what I was thinking taking on this project when our kids were one and four, but it was a good decision. Kendall Square is a pretty cool place to be!

You are surrounded by your family and long-time friends at work. How did this happen?

First and foremost, I'm really lucky to work with my husband, Pete. The rest sort of just happened. Dan, my brother, was the first employee; he worked the bar a few nights a week to help us when we first opened.

Nina, who I've known since I was 16, and grew up with Pete, started working with us a few years later. Steve was a regular and friend at 'old' EVOO, and he became a co-worker when we opened Za in Arlington. He became a partner when we opened in Kendall.

Then, there's a whole lot of people that started working at EVOO and Za who have become long-time friends. I joke I've known Tiego for over half of his life. We've even had a few nieces and nephews of long-time employees come to work for us, so that's pretty cool. We are really lucky to have such a great bunch to work with!

Do you have a favorite all-time EVOO menu item?

The Garlic and Parsley Studded Beef Tenderloin with Sweet 'n' Smoky Onions, Sour Cream Whipped Potatoes, Carrots and Orange Béarnaise is my all time favorite EVOO dish. I used to joke with Pete that if he ever took it off the menu, our marriage may be over. He did take it off the menu for a short time (was he testing me??) because he wasn't able to locally source the cut he wanted to offer. Thankfully, he was able to find a new source for local grass fed center cut tenderloin, so our marriage survived!

What do you look for when you go to other restaurants?

Good food and good service. Sometimes you want to just go out and grab a quick dinner, but the food should still be good and the service, welcoming and friendly (see pet peeve below!). Obviously, the restaurant has to be clean too. It's always interesting to watch the way the staff interacts. My kids even comment on various things we see. We usually joke those are the things we discuss in the car on the way home .

What makes you crazy when you go to other restaurants?

My biggest pet peeve is when no one thanks me on the way out, or says goodnight. I find it especially frustrating when employees and managers are standing right there, but don't acknowledge us, or bother to thank us. There are so many dining options, and feeling appreciated on the way out or not impacts whether or not I want to go back. It's your last impression on the way out.

Who cooks at home, and what's your favorite dish to make?

When he's home, Pete cooks, we are pretty spoiled. Unfortunately for me, Pete's not home most nights, so the nights I'm home, I'm head chef. I call myself a mom-cook. I cook pretty basic food, but I think I cook it pretty well.

Our son Shane (13) will eat anything, and I mean anything . He was the kid who wanted to try a fish eyeball when he was 11 ( no thank you ). And then there is Caitlin (10). She's a little fussier, but she's come a long way. The other day, I asked them what my best dish is. Shane said steak and cheese subs, and chicken piccata.Caitlin said homemade mac 'n cheese, and fettuccine alfredo. We always make it a point to try to sit down for dinner together on the nights we're home.

Peter

You have spent so much of your life and career working with and promoting local food and local purveyors. What motivated you to start working this way?

While working at The Bostonian Hotel in the 1980's and 90's, I was exposed to a few local farmers: Eva Sommaripa from Eva's Garden, Verrill Farm's, Ken Ryan's Van, and Roger Jones to name a few. They were so passionate about what they were growing, I wanted to support them by buying as much as of their produce as we could use. It helps put meaning into what we do; we strive to be a part of our community.

As EVOO comes up on its 20 th anniversary, how is it different than you thought it would be in 1998?

I don't know, in 1998 we were just trying get by; there was a lot to figure out. We were mostly thinking day to day not really looking too far ahead. After a few years, we settled in and moved ahead, opening Za in Arlington. A few years later we moved EVOO to Kendall Square and opened a second Za location in an adjacent space. It will be interesting to see what the next 20 years will bring.

You are surrounded by your family and long-time friends at work. How did this happen?

They all threatened to expose me for what I really am. So, we're stuck with them.

Where do you like to eat when you're not working?

My favorite place to eat is at home, with Colleen and our children–whether it's a simple meal on the grill, or an elaborate all day experience, there is no place I would rather be.

Do you have a favorite dining experience (other than EVOO and Za, of course)?

It's sunset on the beach in Nerja, Spain. I'm with my brother Steve, brother-in-law Dan and a couple of friends, and we go into the beach-side bar and for some beer, and ask about food. The proprietor sends us out to the beach with our beers, assuring us food will be taken care of.

A few minutes later the proprietor is making a wood fire on the beach, stoking it, adding a bit more wood as needed, replenishing our beers. Once the coals are just right he brings a bucket of fish out to the fire. He skewers the fish on fairly thick planks, slits the skin to keep it from curling while cooking, and seasons the fish with coarse salt. He then jammed the planks into the sand, so the fish would lean over the fire, with their drippings creating a pleasant smoke while gently cooking them. All the while, he kept the beer flowing. When the fish was finished, he simply slid the fish off the planks on top of some crisp romaine lettuce, adding a healthy squeeze of lemon juice and a long drizzle of EVOO. It was so good!!! Quite often the simplest preparations are the best.

The other extreme would be upon visiting Paul Bocuse's eponymous restaurant in Lyon, France, where the master himself met Colleen and I at the door with flutes of Champagne, giving us a wonderful personal tour of the restaurant, followed by a perfectly prepared and presented 8 course meal.

You mentor many people? Any hints for others, and did you have an important professional mentor?

Treat people how you would want to be treated.

Kitchen work is stressful enough; you don't need some egotist with a tall hat and limited skills yelling at you, blaming you for their inadequacies.

Give good directions and constantly follow through with critiques that will make your cooks better. Understand that everyone is different, so you should find ways to use an individual's strengths, and guide them to better their weaknesses.

Chef Billy Poirier

Professional mentors? Billy Poirier was the Executive Chef at the Bostonian Hotel when I started working there in 1987; it was an eye-opening experience. My previous experiences at lesser quality restaurants, and at culinary school paled in comparison to the food being prepared at the time, which was, all made in-house with seasonal ingredients.

Other mentors whom I did not work with, but respect their work, are Gordon Hamersley, Jasper White, Lydia Shire, and Alice Waters.

Hannah Schwab, no, it's not her high school yearbook photo

February's employee spotlight is Hannah Schwab. Hannah has many roles at EVOO and Za, most importantly she is half of our events team, corresponding with, helping plan and execute our private events. She also can be seen waiting tables, running food and being a shift supervisor at any of the restaurants. I am often lucky enough to share the office space with Hannah, between her many emails and phone conversations, she always has a story to tell, most of them are quite amusing. When Hannah isn't fulfilling one of her many roles with us she is often training for her next physical challenge, anything from a 5K to a marathon or a triathlon, Hannah is always pushing herself to great achievements.

Hannah on the right is all smiles after finishing the Cambridge 1/2 Marathon with Kylie Millbern, Colleen and me.

Hannah during a recent triathlon

Steve Kurland, our General Manager and business partner, came up with this insightful list of questions for Hannah. Continue reading to learn more than you ever wanted to know about Hannah.

How long have you worked at EVOO and in which jobs? I started working at EVOO in 2011. I first started working at Za (EVOO's sister restaurant) in Arlington back in 2005. In 2010, when we opened Za and EVOO in Kendall Square, I began working full time. At EVOO I am currently part of the events team, supervisor, and serve two nights a week.

What do you enjoy most about your different job roles? I love the variety that it provides each day. It's great to see an event from the first initial phone call to actually serving the party. I think it is helpful when planning events to also have insight on serving the group as well. I am a firm believer in the phrase :variety is the spice of life!"

Tell us a bout being a Doula: One of my really good friends (and a past employee of the restaurant) recently asked me and another friend to be her doulas for her second child's birth coming up this February. For those that have never heard of a doula, they are meant to help provide support to the mother and family during child birth and after. I took a class and learned all there is to know. I am excited to support my friend. I also think that is not something you normally hear about. How awesome to have a support system built around you for not only the mother and baby but for the significant others as well. You never know, it could be a future side job.

What's your favorite food item on our current menu? I LOVE everything on the menu. The burratina dish is always great. We have just started to have a burger on the menu and it changes weekly, and they are all amazing. Who doesn't love a burger? The Haddock dish has some great flavors. I could go on and on. I always tell everyone how spoiled I am working here and having the opportunity to eat great food all the time. It's a blessing. My all time favorite dish is our strawberry gazpacho in the summer and the strawberry rhubarb crisp! And don't even get me started on the pizza at Za.

What have you learned working at EVOO? Wow, there are so many things. I guess the skill of being great at customer service. Whether at a table talking about our menu or helping someone planning a party, a smile, thank you, and overall enthusiasm for our food and mission goes a long way. I feel very fortunate to be a part of a great team here!

What's on your music playlist right now? I have recently been on a music surge lately of some artists. Currently in rotation are Big Thief, Colter Wall, and Lisa LeBlanc. The later two are both from Canada.

What was your favorite clothing item in high school? I don't think that I had a favorite clothing item. I had a red Jansport backpack that I loved. I really liked the television series "My So Called Life". And the lead character had a red Jansport. So I thought it was pretty cool.

What is the last show you attended? I recently went to see Greensky Bluegrass at the House of Blues in Boston . There's nothing like adding a little twang to your evening to make your soul happy. These guys are really great musicians and put on a fantastic show.

Where did you grow up? How did you end up in the Boston area? I grew up in Western Pennsylvania, a little town called Beaver Falls. Famous for the being the home town of Jets quarterback Joe Namath. After high school, I joined the United States Coast Guard. I was stationed in Buffalo, NY and Cape Cod. I met a bunch of awesome friends and overall had a great experience. After the Coast Guard, I moved to Boston and went to college and have never left. At my heart I am still and will always be a Pittsburgh Steeler fan!

What was your first car? A 1994 Toyota Corolla. It was a great car. Drove cross country in it. I should never have traded it in but liked the look of the old Jettas so off it went. I now have a 2004 Honda Civic Coupe, Scooter, he's the best! Trying to keep him on the road for another year!

What's your dream job (other than EVOO) ? This is a tough question. There are lots of things I would like to do. The next step would likely be some role within event planning and maybe not at a restaurant but within the arts world some how. I always wanted to be a park ranger (since High School) and work a historical site giving tours. I also went to school for radio broadcasting so maybe working for public radio.

What is one thing you are passionate about? I don't think that I could list just one thing that I am passionate about; it's like naming one band as your favorite band. So here are a few: Family, Hankers (Hannah's boyfriend Hank), Friends, Work, Running, Triathlons (my picture is from after I finished an Olympic distance triathlon this past Summer), Biking, Ocean, Swimming, Music, Concerts, Records, Reading, Walden Pond, Cooking, Knitting, Yoga, Movies, Eating, Dancing, Outdoors, really just enjoying all there is too life!

1/2 cooked, not cut 'za

As many of you know Za is EVOO's sister restaurant with two locations, one in Kendall Square, Cambridge, abutting EVOO and the original Za is on Massachusetts Avenue in Arlington. When the timing is not right for you to dine at either restaurant, you can still enjoy 'za on your own schedule. Below is the best way I have found for finish cooking or re-heating 'za. So, if you are not sure what time you want to eat, but you know you want 'za, don't serve it soggy and cold. Follow these simple instructions to eat crispy crusted hot pizza whenever you want with little effort.

The first thing you need to do is order a stack of za from either location. They are 10″ pizzas that will serve one hardy appetite or two can share one za paired with one of Za's amazing salads. Order a bunch and finish cooking on your time. I tend to order them early in the day, asking for them to be 1/2 cooked, not cut and refrigerated until pick-up. There is no need to take them home hot. When I get home I refrigerate the pizzas until I'm ready, whether it's a few hours or a few days it doesn't matter.

When it's time, preheat your oven to 375 degrees. Once your oven reaches 375, place a heavy duty cookie sheet on the middle rack in your oven and heat the cookie sheet for 5 minutes, this will ensure a crisp bottom. If you have multiple racks and multiple sheet pans you can finish cooking several pizzas at a time, however, be careful the temperature on the bottom and top racks can vary greatly from the middle one.

Now add your pizza, I have found it takes between 8 and 12 minutes to get the crust crispy and the cheese to gooey. Use a burger flipping spatula lifting the 'za in the middle. The sides of the 'za not being held by the spatula should not droop, the topping should be hot and bubbling in spots. Remove the Za from the oven place on a big cutting board, cut into eight equal sized pieces and serve.